Why Do Houses Settle? 5 Common Causes

  1. Built on soft clay or new fill with an unsuitable foundation — soft clay keeps consolidating for years; if the foundation is shallow or the piles are too short, the house settles with the ground (Bangkok and its surrounding provinces see this problem most; read more in Bangkok soft clay and foundation work)
  2. Piles not reaching the stiff layer, or of unequal length — some piles bear on the stiff layer while others float in soft clay, causing differential settlement of the house
  3. Changes in groundwater level — e.g. groundwater pumping in the area causes additional soil consolidation
  4. Excavation or construction nearby — deep excavation or pile driving close to the house disturbs the soil beneath the existing foundation
  5. Soil around the house eroded or with voids — leaking underground pipes wash soil out until voids form under the floor
Five common causes of house settlement, and the case of ground settling around a house, which is normal A six-panel illustration. Panel one: a house on a shallow foundation or short piles in soft clay or new fill settles with the continuously consolidating ground. Panel two: some piles reach the stiff layer while others float in soft clay, so the house settles unevenly and tilts. Panel three: groundwater pumping lowers the groundwater level and the soil consolidates further. Panel four: deep excavation or pile driving next to the house disturbs the soil beneath the existing foundation. Panel five: a leaking pipe under the floor washes out soil until a void forms. Panel six: the normal case of a piled house on soft clay — the ground around the house settles, but the house itself, sitting on long piles reaching the stiff layer, does not, leaving a gap under the floor around the house. 5 causes of house settlement + 1 normal symptom Not to scale 1 Soft soil/fill + shallow footing Soil settles for years; house follows 2 Piles short of stiff layer / unequal Some float in soft clay → diff. settlement 3 Groundwater level drops Well pumping → more consolidation 4 Nearby digging / pile driving Soil under footing moves 5 Leaking pipe, soil washed out Water removes soil, floor sinks ✓ Normal: ground around settles House on long piles to stiff layer stays Conceptual illustration · depth compressed
The 5 causes of house settlement listed above, and the lower-right panel showing "ground settling around the house," which is normal for a house on long piles reaching the stiff layer (conceptual illustration)
📌 Key point

The symptom of "the ground around the house settling while the house itself does not" is normal for a piled house on soft clay — the ground settles naturally, but the house sits on piles that transfer the load to the stiff layer. What you really need to worry about is differential settlement of the house structure itself

Which Warning Signs Need an Engineer's Inspection?

The main signs to watch are diagonal cracks at door and window corners that keep widening, doors and windows that no longer close properly or sit askew, floors that tilt noticeably, a gap between an extension and the house that keeps opening, and water pipes under the floor that repeatedly break or leak for no known reason. Fine hairline cracks in plaster are usually not a structural problem — we cover crack types and their severity in detail in Foundation warning signs: which cracks need urgent repair. This article focuses on the next question: where does soil investigation come in?

House Extensions: Why Do They Often "Settle Away" from the House?

A classic problem in Thai houses is a rear kitchen or carport extension that settles and tears away from the house. The main cause is two foundation systems sitting on the same ground but settling by different amounts:

  • The original house uses long piles reaching the stiff layer and barely settles
  • The extension often uses short piles or spread footings on fill, which keep settling with the soft clay for years in soft-ground areas
3D model of a rear extension settling away from the house, and soil boring in a narrow space beside the house A 3D view of a two-storey house on a plot cut away to show the soil layers at the front and right side. The original house sits on long piles reaching the stiff clay layer, so it barely settles. The single-storey side extension uses short piles with tips in soft clay, so it settles with the ground and tilts away from the house, opening a gap at the joint. The ground around the house has settled until a gap shows under the floor, which is normal for a piled house on soft clay. On the left side of the house, a small tripod rig is drilling a soil boring in the narrow walkway beside the house. Depth is compressed and settlement is exaggerated. 3D model — extension settles away from the house Not to scale Boring in side walkway Find stiff layer before extending 5 Tear at the joint Pipe/roof leaks 3 Extension: short piles Tips in soft clay, settle w/ soil 2 Old house: long piles Tip in stiff layer, stable 1 Ground settles (floor gap) Normal for a piled house 4 Depth compressed · settlement exaggerated
3D model — ① original house on long piles reaching the stiff layer ② extension on short piles with tips in soft clay, so it settles with the ground and tilts away ③ tear at the joint ④ ground around the house settles until a gap shows under the floor (normal) ⑤ soil boring in the narrow walkway beside the house to find the depth of the stiff layer before extending (settlement exaggerated)

The result is a tear at the joint, broken water pipes and a leaking roof. Soil investigation before extending answers the most important questions for this work: how deep is the stiff layer, and what type and length of pile should be used? — in the confined space beside a house, engineers often choose micropiles or jacked piles, as the equipment can reach narrow spaces, with the type and length chosen from actual soil data, not guesswork (compare pile types in Pile types: which one suits your project)

Soil boring in a confined space beside a house before an extension
Soil boring in a confined space beside a house before an extension, to find the depth of the stiff layer and choose a pile type and length suited to the actual soil data (Photo: SPN Soil Engineering)
Soil boring inside an existing building with settlement problems
Soil boring inside an existing building with settlement problems, to assess the soil layers and foundation before designing a strengthening approach (Photo: SPN Soil Engineering)

So When Should You Do a Soil Boring? By Situation

← Scroll to see the full table →

ScenarioIs soil boring needed?
Light extension, e.g. a steel-frame canopyUsually not needed, but consult an engineer about connections to the existing structure
Single-storey kitchen/carport extension on soft clay or fillRecommended if there is no existing soil data for the house, to set the extension's pile length
Two-storey extension or a large added loadShould be done, as the load approaches that of a whole house (compare Does a 2-storey house need soil boring?)
House settled/cracked and needs foundation strengtheningShould be done, to find the cause and the depth of the stiff layer, and to design supplementary piles such as micropiles
Soil boring results for the original house already existLet an engineer decide; existing data may be used if site conditions have not changed

A simple rule of thumb: the heavier the extension, the softer the soil and the less existing soil data you have, the greater the value of soil investigation, because one set of data serves to design the piles, the foundation and the structural joints (for why soil boring matters for every construction project, read Why soil investigation is needed before construction)

The Right Steps When a House Settles or Before Extending

  1. Have a structural engineer assess the site — look at the crack pattern, tilt and building history before concluding the cause
  2. Collect soil data — soil investigation to learn the soil profile, depth of the stiff layer and groundwater level; for a house, usually just 1 borehole at a suitable location is needed
  3. Design the fix/extension on actual data — e.g. specify the type and length of piles for the extension, or design underpinning piles for the foundation
  4. Separate the extension structure from the original house properly — provide a joint that allows differential settlement without tearing tiles, pipes or the roof, following the engineer's design (read the detailed principles of extension foundation design and structural separation in House extension foundations: how to design them so they don't settle or crack)

Summary: 1 Borehole Costs Far Less Than Fixing a Settled Extension

A settling house and an extension that settles away from it share the same root problem: "a foundation that does not match the actual soil layers." Soil investigation is the only way to know how deep the stiff layer is and how the soil settles. A soil investigation costs many times less than demolishing and fixing an extension that has already settled — for a 2–3 storey residence, SPN's soil investigation service starts at approximately THB 20,000–40,000 (for 2–3 boreholes, excluding travel and equipment mobilization, which are charged extra based on the distance to site), with a Boring Log report certified by a civil engineer (see pricing details and factors in Soil boring prices 2026)